Talking Cheap Wine!

A husband and wife explore
the world of inexpensive wine

We all know the typical inexpensive Sangiovese: light, soft, informal, easy to drink. This Bonizio Sangiovese di Maremma is a different animal. Produced by Cecchi, a prominent Tuscan maker of Chianti, this wine is an interesting take on a recent trend to explore wines from some of the less well known areas Italy. Maremma is an area in southern Tuscany and is also the origin of the Morellino di Scansano wine that has achieved some notoriety of late.

This wine exhibits a deep red color with the floral notes on the nose that are typical of many lighter Italian wines. At first taste, this wine is totally zingy, all strawberry, raspberry and spice. Wife characterized it as "hot."

In any case, we sipped it with our dinner then took the dog for a walk. When we got back, the wine seemed to have opened up and mellowed. Now there were significant notes of ripe plums and the finish was longer and drier with the tannins more noticeable. There is a slight earthiness on the finish, a kind of sweet sour note, that Wife certainly didn't care for and that basically left her with a negative opinion on this wine.

We had the rest of the bottle the next day with a simple crispy pizza with three cheeses, herbs and roma tomatoes. The whole sweet and sour thing had disappeared and the wine had mellowed even further. The tannins were softer and the overall impact was simpler and easier yet still pleasant enough.

TCW Ratings

This wine is fun like most Sangiovese but there is an added complexity and dryness. The wine morphs from spicy to rich as it opens up and has a nice long smooth finish. That slight funkiness that was noticed on the finish, though, may not be to everyone's liking and caused us to reduce our taste score. Still, at $8.99 a bottle it is a decent value and offers a good accompaniment to robust Italian food. Give it a try and see what else the Sangiovese grape can do.

Taste: 7.9 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10

This modest Cab is from California. Made by the folks at Concannon Vineyard, it makes a good everyday quaff.

Wife characterizes the Concannon as a very light Cab, not a lot of complexity but enough going on to make it a good accompaniment to certain meals. For example, we had this wine with a stew made with turkey, sausage, cauliflower and potatoes. The wine had enough body to stand up to the sausage but was soft and fruity enough to match well with the turkey. This might even be ideal with a Thanksgiving dinner.

Anyway, speaking of fruit, the wine shows prominent black cherry (just as the label says). The tannins are subtle and not overwhelming. The wine is soft and well rounded. There is no bitter or overly sweet aftertaste; it's mellow and easy to drink and displays just the slightest hint of oak.

Husband and Wife agree that this wine was better with food than by itself. We also liked it much better after it opened though as the night progressed, the black cherry became a little sweeter.

TCW Ratings

All in all, this is a modest Cab. It's almost good enough to become your everyday house wine but we have found there are a few other wines at the same price point that deliver superior taste and value. At only $8.99 a bottle, the Concannon is certainly modestly priced and you don't have to be embarrassed to serve it to guests. For the sake of variety, you should definitely give it a try.

Taste: 7.8 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10

Husband is flying solo on this review while Wife is out hanging with her friends. Not only that but me and the boys are eating leftovers tonight.

So our meal included some of the grilled swordfish we had a couple of days ago. We cooked up some orechiette, added some San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and a few fresh shrimps. We cut the swordfish into bite-size pieces, added some fresh mint (still thriving in our garden, even in October) , fresh basil (from the supermarket) and lots of ground black pepper. It was clear a good Italian white was called for.

The Alois Lageder Pinot Blanc was a perfect accompaniment. The nose had notes of pear and apple. On the palate, the pear reappeared and lent a nice round mouthfeel. The finish on this wine was long, rich and fruity with minerals and a bit of lemon and butter creeping in.

The swordfish added heft to what would normally be a very light and zingy dish. The richness of this wine provided just the right counterpoint to the food. As I sipped a glass later on, I was pleased to see that the complexity of the wine held my interest and I was able to focus on the delicate nose and some of the layers of flavors in the finish.

TCW Ratings

This wine is medium bodied - I would consider it a bit too rich to call it light. Nevertheless, it has enough crispness and acidity to make it a good candidate for seafood and it would go equally well with many chicken dishes and anything with a cream sauce. Typically sold for $12.99 we found it for $10.99 which seems a reasonable price. Well regarded by the Wine Spectator, this wine is worth a try.

Taste: 8.5 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10

Here is an unusual wine from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It is a made from semillon only. Usually we see this grape combined with sauvignon blanc.

In any case, this is a very nice, food friendly wine. Husband got mango/papaya fruit on the nose and Wife got a blast of sweetness. What rescues this wine is the finish. That's where we start to get the notes of mineral and definite lime. Not the rush of lime you get when you bite a fresh lime but the subtler taste of what's left from a fresh-squeezed lime.

We had this wine with grilled swordfish with a baguette and a salsa made of corn, tomato, red onion and zucchini. Despite the fruity notes, the acidity of this wine allowed it act as a good accompaniment.

As the night progressed, this wine got more buttery and less sweet, which in our opinion is a good thing.

TCW Ratings

This Stanley Lambert Semillon is a pleasant, refreshing wine. It comes on with ripe tropical fruit at first and then segues into lime and minerals. It is crisp and fresh and the touch of butter as the night wears on adds a touch of elegance that is quite welcome. At the store we frequent, this wine is always about $1o so we didn't get it on sale but you might be able to find a better deal.

Taste: 8 out 10
Value: 9 out of 10

OK, so Wife is cooking a pasta dish with calamari, sweet peppers, a few flakes of dried chipotle chiles and chunks of lobster. "So what wine are we having with this fine meal?" asks Wife.

"Well, I've got this Montes Chardonnay from Chile," I reply. "Oh, jeez, I'm making lobster" Wife says, "and you've got a wine with a screw top? This better not be a big disappointment."

Luckily for the Husband, the wine was OK, not a triumph but certainly not a disappointment. Wife said it was crisp and spicy with grapy notes on the nose that reminded her of grappa. Husband agreed that the nose was quite fruity but not quite featuring the bite of grappa. We noted that the crispness was a function of how cold the wine was. The warmer it got, the rounder and softer it became and the more the butteriness and vanilla came forward.

TCW Ratings

On the whole, this wine is all about the fruit. The label talks about tropical fruit and we can see where they're coming from. To its credit, this wine doesn't overdue the oak and butter combination and remains crisp and food friendly. We paid just under $8 for this wine so it definitely falls into the cheap wine category. There are always occasions that call for a modest Chardonnay and this wine nicely fits the bill.

Taste: 7.8 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10

10/03/2008

Atteca Old Vines 2006

Wine Label: Atteca 2006The Atteca Old Vines 2006 is from Spain, a source of so many good value wines. It is made from 100% Garnacha grapes. The vines are approximately 100 years old and the result is a rich, flavorful wine.

We passed a glass around and our boys said it smelled like blackberries, Wife said it had chocolate on the nose and Husband thought it smelled hot, with earth and alcohol. Something wrong with his nose today? Maybe.

Wife is very impressed. She's liking the cherry overtones, dark black cherry overtones. We're both liking the depth, the complexity and the richness. This is a powerful wine. The finish is long, smooth and supple with tannins in just the right proportion. The fruit in this wine is ripe and chewy and, as the boys said, there are definite notes of blackberry as well as the cherry.

We had this wine with pork loin, sweet potatoe french fries and roasted acorn squash basted in apple cider, butter, sage and tarragon. This wine had no problem standing up to the food but didn't overpower it. It was just a pleasure with or without the food.

As the night wore on, the tannins began to recede a bit, leaving the cherry fruit a little more prominent. Nevertheless, the wine remained interesting and we enjoyed every sip.

TCW Ratings

We really liked this wine and will certainly be buying it again. List price is in the neighborhood of $17, a bit above our limit, but we have seen it on sale for $10.99 several times now. It's rich and fruity, dry and well structured. If you can find it for under $15 it will be well worth your while to pick up a bottle.

Taste: 9.5 out of 10
Value: 9 out of 10



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About Us...

We are a typical suburban husband and wife with two children, a dog and a cat. We also like good food and, not incidentally, good wine. It is no coincidence that we met and fell in love over gourmet meals and fine bottles of wine. Wine tasting was one of our favorite activities.

Now, of course, things are a little different. We have a basement, not a wine cellar (though we do have a modest wine cooler). Like so many others in our family and financial situation, we are not able to continuously keep expensive wines on the dinner table. We need to do the next best thing: find good value bargain wines that are affordable but still yield a solid measure of enjoyment.

You see, Husband has often been known to bring home more wine than is needed or wanted by Wife. Confrontation ensued...

A compromise needed to be reached. If quantity was to remain high, cost must reduced. But what about quality?

If quality is to be maintained, it requires a search for value.

So we resolved to explore inexpensive wines from around the world. Red wine, white wine and rose are all on the menu. We'll be checking in on the usual wine producing countries like Italy, Spain, France, Germany, the U.S., Chile, Australia and New Zealand as well as lesser known producers from Austria, South Africa and Portugal. We may sample well known varietals like cabernet, chardonnay, merlot and pinot noir as well as wines made from a wide range of less well known grapes such as albarino, malbec, gruner veltliner, cinsault and mourvedre.

It has been a never-ending search but now we would like to write about what we discover and share it with others. On Talking Cheap Wines we'll do the wine tasting for you and tip you off about the good wines and the bad wines. It is our contention that fine wine doesn't have to be expensive so the wine bottles we sample will all be in a price range we think of as cheap.

What is cheap?

By cheap, we mean under $15 per bottle though many of the wines we discuss will probably cost considerably less.

What is value?

There are two aspects to value. First, does the wine taste good? Cheap wine doesn't have to taste cheap or nasty. Second, is it worth the money? Could we have found a similar tasting wine for a lot less money? Could we have found much better tasting wine at the same price? These are subjective criteria but we'll give you our opinion.

There are so many wines in the world and so many wine producing regions that there are always bargains to be found. Our intention is to share our experiences as we try inexpensive wines from around the world. We hope we can point you to some of our favorites.

About our Ratings

Taste - we compare the wines we write about to the universe of inexpensive wines. So if we give a wine a 10 out 10, that doesn't mean it is as good as a $1200 bottle of Bordeaux. It means that for an inexpensive wine it is darn good and would bring pleasure to anyone who is not a total wine snob.

Value - once again, the comparison is to the universe of inexpensive wines. Consider it a taste per dollar rating where taste is defined as described in the preceding paragraph.

Enjoy! And remember to drink responsibly.

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