We all know the typical inexpensive Sangiovese: light, soft, informal, easy to drink. This Bonizio Sangiovese di Maremma is a different animal. Produced by Cecchi, a prominent Tuscan maker of Chianti, this wine is an interesting take on a recent trend to explore wines from some of the less well known areas Italy. Maremma is an area in southern Tuscany and is also the origin of the Morellino di Scansano wine that has achieved some notoriety of late.
This wine exhibits a deep red color with the floral notes on the nose that are typical of many lighter Italian wines. At first taste, this wine is totally zingy, all strawberry, raspberry and spice. Wife characterized it as "hot."
In any case, we sipped it with our dinner then took the dog for a walk. When we got back, the wine seemed to have opened up and mellowed. Now there were significant notes of ripe plums and the finish was longer and drier with the tannins more noticeable. There is a slight earthiness on the finish, a kind of sweet sour note, that Wife certainly didn't care for and that basically left her with a negative opinion on this wine.
We had the rest of the bottle the next day with a simple crispy pizza with three cheeses, herbs and roma tomatoes. The whole sweet and sour thing had disappeared and the wine had mellowed even further. The tannins were softer and the overall impact was simpler and easier yet still pleasant enough.
This wine is fun like most Sangiovese but there is an added complexity and dryness. The wine morphs from spicy to rich as it opens up and has a nice long smooth finish. That slight funkiness that was noticed on the finish, though, may not be to everyone's liking and caused us to reduce our taste score. Still, at $8.99 a bottle it is a decent value and offers a good accompaniment to robust Italian food. Give it a try and see what else the Sangiovese grape can do.
Value: 8 out of 10








We are a typical suburban husband and wife with
two children, a dog and a cat. We also like good food and, not incidentally, good wine. It is no coincidence that we
met and fell in love over gourmet meals and fine bottles of wine. Wine tasting was one of our favorite activities.